Friday, September 22, 2023

1930 REO

 

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #19)





Photo 19-1a thru 1d) Photos show my work fabricating the right splash apron strengthener. Note how last photo in this group shows the cut piece is bowed which is to be expected. The heat of cutting bows the metal after which it must be worked and straightened (which I did).





Photo 19-2a thru 2b) There are always lots of little things to do along the way, like cleaning threads.






Photos 19-3a thru 3c) Aligning and installing new original mounting holes in right fenders, both front and rear.






Photo 19-4a thru 4d) Forming and initial trimming of right splash apron for installation of strengthener.








Photo 19-5a thru 5dd) Photo shows my work on running board gussets. Each gusset was previously cut, modified in its shape, and spot welded. Now with the fitting complete, I am welding them solid. Note in second photo, I wrote down dimensions before welding the gussets solid as reference in case the gussets warped during welding. They are made of heavy metal, and with careful welding, did not warp.







Photo 19-6a thru 6d)  I cleaned up areas where running board gussets mounted to frame.






Photo 19-7a thru 7c) Here I am checking clearance required for addition of splash apron strengthener and final trimming apron before adding strengthener.








Photo 19-8a thru 8e) Here I am modifying center frame to running board gusset for clearance of splash apron and strengthener.






Photo 19-9a thru 9c) Here I am trimming bottom of running board to fit with splash apron and strengthener.





Photo 19-10a thru 10b) Checking my work for squareness and fit. Note that bubble tilts slightly in such a way that water will run off of running board away from car and not into car. I did both sides of car are like this.




Photo 19-11a) I used the old mounting holes between running board and splash apron for spot welding the strengthener on the splash apron. This secured the strengthener and at the same time filled the holes which had been mis-drilled anyway, so it was like killing two birds with one stone. I then drilled new mounting holes. So it worked out very well.  






Photo 19-12a thru 12c) Here I am installing the strengthener to the splash apron. Note I am welding with it clamped to a very heavy piece of angle iron. This helps with two things. The heavy angle iron absorbs the heat and that helps to keep warpage down. Plus the angle iron helps to hold the work straight while welding. The piece still warped as to be expected, but not as much as it otherwise would have, and I straightened it.





Photo 19-13a thru 13b) These are the new alignment holes for splash apron and running board, first marked with panels assembled, then drilled with 1/8 inch holes before welding the strengthener. In such a way, I could turn the apron over after welding and have the holes as guides. Holes were then enlarged to ¼ inch and apron was reinstalled to car.




Photo 19-14a) Here I am welding the braces inside the running board solid. I previously had cut the braces free and reinstalled them to fit, but I only tack welded them until all the work was done and I was certain I had everything fitting right. Now I have welded them solid.




Photo 19-15a) This shows the bolts that hold the splash apron to the front fender. The bolt holes were almost too far out of alignment, but because they were close, and because these normally take elongated washers, I elongated the holes just a bit which will hide and save a lot of work. I also trimmed the apron here to be identical to the other side.





Photo 19-16a thru 16c) Here is the apron bolted to the running board. In the bottom picture, note how the lip on the strengthener hides what would otherwise be three edges (the running board, the running board cover, and the apron). So instead of there being three edges there which could look a little ragged, they all tuck into the lip of the strengthener which gives a very clean look. The bolts do not have washers in photo because it is metal on metal but of course after parts are painted washers will be required to keep from breaking the paint.







Photo 19-17a thru 17d) Panels fit great!


Note: Other than a few minor things, very minor, the work of correcting the panel fit on right and left sides of car is complete. The right side required a particularly large amount of work and I wouldn’t have done it if the panels hadn’t been so terribly far off in fit. Before the corrective work, it took so much force to bend and bolt them together, it was just crazy. To fix the problem, I had to start at the frame and literally modify everything from the frame out. It was a huge job but now the panels fit perfectly and all the bolts and nuts go together easy as pie. On the one hand, I am so sorry that all this work had to be done. It was a correction of bad work that I had nothing to do with. On the other hand, I am so very happy to have it fixed and fixed right. No one will ever know from looking at the car that this work had to be done. Both sides now fit perfectly.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY! 
















 


 










 







Friday, August 4, 2023

1930 REO

 

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #18)



Photo 18-1a) Test fitting before moving on to the next step. 
Note, I did a large amount of fitting and metal work that is not shown in photos.





Photo 18-2a thru 2c) Photos show my work fabricating new spare tire well section for right front fender. I used metal from an old sign because I had no 18 ga metal. I had 16 ga and 20 ga. The nearest 18 ga was 1.75 hours away (3.5 hour round trip), but I had the sign and it was 18 ga (I checked it with digital calipers and it was a light 18 ga or heavy 19 ga which is just fine). It is good metal and it worked well. I had already cut from the sign before so it wasn’t like I sacrificed a vintage sign.



Photos 18-3a) Adjusting running board’s inner brace, before proceeding. Note: Brace looks out of square in photo but that is only because it was laying loose in the running board when photo was taken.








Photo 18-4a and 4f) Completing work on right front fender inner structure.





Photo 18-5a thru 5c) Fitting and welding fender inner and outer structures together.



Photo 18-6a) Sheet metal laid down on running board to prevent welding sparks from burning polished stainless steel.




Photo 18-7a thru 7b) Checking for warpage after welding inner and outer structures together (all was good).








Photo 18-8a thru 8f) Installing, fitting, and welding the rear section back onto front fender. 






Photo 18-9a thru 9d) Installing, fitting, and welding wheel house section into front fender. 




Photo 18-10a thru 10b) View of bottom side. In top photo, note that I left a little of the underside welds showing in order to maintain good unit strength. Also, some of the welds are from previous work when I widened the fender. The welds will hide with high-build primer or a little spot putty. 





Photo 18-11a thru 11b) This was the moment-of-truth when I unbolted the fender to see if it had warpage from welding. Note: When I welded it onto the fender, I did so in the same fashion that a person would tighten cylinder head on and engine, working back and forth in a cross pattern. Also while welding, I had both pieces bolted and clamped tightly in place. When I removed the bolts and clamps, the fender did not move. The photos were taken with no bolts or clamps holding it to the running board. It lays perfectly where it should, bolt holes line up and bolts can be installed with fingers. This is a major hurdle cleared. 



Photo 18-12a) After completing the work, I immediately primed the bare metal to avoid oxidation and surface rust. The primer is spray can primer, for temporary protection, and can be removed before body and paint work is done to fender.


Note: I am extremely pleased now that the right side panels fit without the crazy use of clamps and jacks. Panels can be removed and installed like normal panels, holes line up perfectly, and bolts can be installed with fingers. I still need to install the stiffener to the splash apron. I believe I mentioned this when I began work on this side of the car, being that the splash apron stiffener must go on last (same as the left side was). I also need to weld up the frame-to-running board gussets which are modified but only spot welded. So there is still some work to go on the right side but the big part is done, and it is right! 

THANK YOU, JERRY!




 


















1930 REO

  1930 REO (photo record for work performed in, Invoice #19) Photo 19-1a thru 1d) Photos show my work fabricating the right splash apron str...