Photo 9-1a) As you know, I have been
using vinegar as a replacement for the no-longer available DuPont product
called, 5717s. Vinegar is excellent for small parts (see photos for invoice #5).
However, when I prepared the next batch of parts (invoice #6, the fenders and
gas-tank), I was not happy with the way the vinegar performed on large sheet
metal parts. Therefore I used DuPont 5717s because I had just enough here in my
personal stock to prep the fenders and other parts in invoice #6. So that
worked out well. However, I still needed a replacement product and after some
research, I found one that I am very pleased with. I did not yet have the
replacement product when I prepared the floor pans and other parts however (invoice
#8). And because I was out of my 5717s, I used the vinegar in a careful process
(describe in next paragraph). This did the job for the floor pans. For this
current batch of parts (invoice #9) I used the new replacement product called Klean-Strip,
Metal Prep. I am very happy with its performance.
Photo 9-2a) The photo shows frontmost/floor-pan with right side prepped with the new product. The photo is very similar to photo 8-2a from the last batch of photos (invoice #8) which shows a panel half-done with vinegar. The vinegar works on large sheet metal panels but the new product is superior. With the vinegar, one has to be very careful and use a high-heat air gun in combination with a compressed air-blower to remove all traces of moister from the surface after scrubbing it with scuff pads and then wiping it dry with towels. It’s tricky business, but can be done. Fortunately, the new product solves the problem. If you look closely at the above photo, you will see the excellent bluing of the two sections to the right of my boot (enlarge the photo if you can). That bluing is exactly what one wants when acid etching metal.
Photos 9-3a thru 9-3c) Photos show the front frame
rail cover panels. The cover panels had gray primer on them so the first thing
I did was to use thinner to remove any oil or other contaminants from the
primer. However, when I started wiping the frame rail covers down with thinner, the primer just melted away. This
surprised me because epoxy or urethane primer would not do that. I realized
that the primer must have been spray can stuff, which is bad news for expensive
paint jobs. After I cleaned off the
primer, I found pitted rust underneath. Someone had obviously sandblasted the
panels in the past but they had not been through in their work and had left
dark spots in the bottoms of the rust pits, and that dark stuff is rust. It has
to be sandblasted out completely to assure that the rust does not come back.
For now, I thoroughly rust-busted the panels and epoxy coated them. I have a
good sandblaster and I can blast them later. The panels still need some work anyway
including welding and bodywork. Then I can sandblast them. For now, my focus is
on getting all bare metal parts protected with epoxy coating. Otherwise, we
could have a disaster on our hands with over two-hundred rusty parts, but do
not worry because that is not going to happen.
Photo 9-4a thru 9-4c) Photo shows hood panels and other parts prepped and
ready for epoxy coating.
Photo 9-5a thru 9-5c) Photos show hood
panels and other parts after epoxy coating.
Photo 9-6a thru
9-6f) I looked through the trailer and got out bare metal
parts for epoxy coating. The third photo down shows the seat frame mechanisms I
fabricated. The seat frames are still in original paint and need sandblasting,
so I oiled the mechanisms for now and stored them back in the trailer. The parts from trailer are interior reveal molding and other interior related
panels that will be epoxy coated in the next batch (invoice #10). Years ago, I fabricated these parts and scrubbed them thoroughly with
acid etch and then boxed and stored them. I was very careful and if you look
closely you will see that there is virtually no rust on them. They still need
to be acid scrubbed however to remove oxidation and allow for good paint
adhesion. I am showing them here to show something important. Please see and read the below.
Photo 9-76a thru 9-7d) Photos show box of hood-door parts. These parts were fabricated and boxed much more recently than the parts mentioned above. I had nothing to do with the fabrication or storage of these parts. The other day, when I opened the box, I found them as shown in photos. I will de-rust and epoxy coat these parts in a later batch (probably invoice #11). Please see note below:
Important
temporary Note: All the parts that were rusted were parts
that had been metal conditioned by Skyler (the shocks, the steering box, the
hood-door parts), but it’s not his fault. He was new at this. There is only one
right way to metal condition parts in my book, and that is to thoroughly scrub
them with a scuff pad while applying the conditioner. This method works the
acid into the metal and therefore etches it completely. I know that some people
say its alright to just wipe the conditioner on with a damp towel, but that
does not work. Skyler prepped the aforementioned parts under Jim’s supervision.
I was not involved. Now, it is true that Jim wanted me to manage the REO project
but I refused and here’s why. When he first asked, I agreed, and I told him I
need the south side of the shop (the paint booth and the stall in front of the
booth) plus an organized storage area in the attic. I got everything organized
and went home for the weekend. When I returned, Jim had invited one of his
buddies to work on his buddies car as a friendship-thing over the weekend. His
buddy’s car was in the stall in front of the paint booth that I had carefully
prepared for the REO before leaving for the weekend. And everything relating to
the REO had been moved from that stall into the paint booth, some of it pushed right
up against the back of the REO. I damn near quit, but instead, I cleared stuff
away and went to work. For months after, Jim’s buddy’s car remained there in
front of the booth, and when it left, another car came in behind it. It was an
impossible situation and I don’t know why I put up with it. I was never in
charge but just trying to do my best under the circumstances. I should have quite
and come to you and told you sooner than I did. I apologize for not doing so.
Note: There are more parts to prep and prime but I am making good progress and should soon have them all cleaned and coated.
THANK YOU, JERRY!
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