1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #4)

Photo 1) Photos show front shocks which are flash rusted. To fix this, I had intended to scrub the flash rust off with a DuPont product called, 5717s. That product has been discontinued at I could not find it anywhere including online. I found a replacement product but, not before I found another alternative which is to scrub the metal with vinegar and then neutralize it with acetone. I tried this on a small spot as shown on the photo, and it works very well.

Photo 2) Due to the flash rust on the front shocks, I inspected all bare metal parts and found almost all to have some degree of flash rust. Not as bad as the shocks but, all the bare metal parts had some oxidation. So I made the decision to clean, prep, and prime all bare metal parts. All parts will be scrubbed with the aforementioned treatment to prepare them for primer. As soon as they are prepared, they will be primed so as not to allow any oxidation to start which can be invisible to the naked eye. The parts will be primed with catalyzed epoxy primer. It is important to note that this process of scrubbing and priming would need to take place sooner or later anyway, so it may as well be done now to protect all parts from future rust. That said, the epoxy primer will need to be removed in areas that require metal work and spot putty work, but it is very important that they be protected in the meantime. Also, the epoxy primer will need to be removed from parts that are to be chrome plated, but again, it is important to protect them from rust now.

Photo 3) Picture of car after I removed parts that are to be primed. The fenders, splash apron, and hood panels will also be primed. The floor pans will be removed, primed, and reinstalled. The seat frames will be primed where bare metal. Everything that is bare metal will be primed to prevent rust development.

Photo 4) Most of the rear axle was primed years ago but the ends and brake backing plates were not primed and are currently showing light flash rust. These areas will be prepped and primed.

Photo 5) Photo shows leaf springs wrapped in plastic, and also, the fuel tank. I am treating the leaf springs differently from the rest of the parts. Since the plan is to have them chrome plated in the future, it would be wasteful to take them completely apart for priming now. Instead, I soaked them in Marvel Mystery Oil and wrapped them in plastic as shown in photo. Later I will wipe off the oil and prime the springs with oil based primer. This way, the springs can be chrome plated in the future, or if it is decided they should be painted instead, they can be painted with black oil base paint without being disassembled if you like, and the oil can remain between the springs.

Regarding the gas tank, I poured the remaining  bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank and swished it around to prevent rust from beginning inside. And because MMO spreads everywhere, it will revel pin holes in the tank welds if there are any, and the pin holes can then be soldered before gas is ever put in the tank. So far I do not see any pin holes.

Photo 6) These are products for your car I purchase with the credit card you sent me. Products from O’Reilly’s Auto Parts in North Lawrence, Kansas. And products from Water’s Hardware in Oskaloosa Kansas. The product costs do not show on your bill of course since I purchased them with your card. Also shown in photo are the vinegar and Mystery Oil  which I purchased with my credit card. The baggies in the photo are the hardware that attaches the parts I removed. The parts will be reinstalled after primer dries.

 

Note: I can e-mail you photo copies of the material receipts if you like. I can also e-mail you an itemized invoice for the work I did if you like (I already have it printed out for my records).

Note: The process of prepping and priming all the parts will take some time. I will do them one batch at a time until all are done.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!