Photo 17-2a thru 2d) Series of photos shows my work fabricating new inner structure for right front fender. The inner structure is made of heavier gauge steel (16ga) than the outer and therefore I used heavy angle iron in a vice to shape it (I have a metal-break but, like most metal-breaks, it isn’t made for heavy gauge sheet metal). The last photo shows both new inner structure and old outer structure which will be welded together. Note that I have straightened the outer structure’s top surface.
Photos 17-3a and 3b) Photos show work I did on the right front fender’s front brace. I did this work in the order as shown here in photos. In other words, I paused my work on the back of the fender to work on the front before returning to continue work on the back portion of fender. Everything must be worked together from one end to other for all the parts to fit like they should. I check fit and measurements as I go and so far everything is dead on the money.
Photo 17-4a and 4b) First photo shows hammer and dolly work in progress,
including the use of a brick chisel. Photos only show a small portion of the
actual work I did. The second photo shows the inner structure in place with the
outer structure resting on the running board behind it. The holes in the outer
structure are where the original spot welds held the two structures together. This
was a lot of fitting work, and when I got to the right point in the work, I
switched to work the running board before returning to fender (see photos below).
Photo 16-5a thru 5m) Photos show work I did on the right running board. The first photo shows the addition of a few spot welds to further strengthen an area I had already spot welded when I squared the running board (see photos for invoice #16). I was not ready to weld the seam solid yet, I never want to do that until all fitting work is complete, but I did need it to be stronger for the hammer work I was preparing to do. The following photos show work I did modifying the right running board cover to make it fit the squared-up running board. The forth photo from top shows the gap I need to close in order to fit the cover to the squared-up running board. The fifth photo shows the gap closed up nicely, however, there was still work to do in order to get the roll of its top edge correct. Because the work had to be done with hammer and dollies, I figured the surface where I worked it would come out a bit rough and require some sanding and polishing but, as shown in the tenth photo from top, I dodged that bullet. I was pleasantly surprised. As shown in ninth photo from top, the very corner will require a small weld, very small. I am out of special gas for stainless steel welding at this time so I will do that later. It will require polishing where welded. The final photo shows the stainless cover re-taped to protect it from scratches.
Photo 17-6a thru 6e) First photo in this group shows running board with
cover back on car for fitting work of panels. The next photos show modification
of the new inner structure piece. I split the inner structure piece into two
parts and made a third part that would weld into place once the fitting is
complete (tack welds first, then final welds at the end). The third photo shows
the top and bottom halves of the inner structure piece with the middle piece in
my hand. The photo is edited to show pieces numbered 1,2,3. The forth photo
shows how the middle piece will install. The final photo shows how the fitting
work is progressing. In the final photo, if you look just above the screw head
to the left, you will see a small black mark. That mark is a fitting line that
shows where the fender should be in relation to the splash apron, and as the
mark indicates, the fender is where it’s supposed to be.
Photo 17-7a thru 7c) Photos show my work on the spare
tire well. To get the right fit, I had to widen the well just a little. Again
the photos only show a small portion of the work I did.
Photo 17-8a thru 8c) Photos show the removal of old wheel well edge from
fender piece. This part of wheel well will be replaced with a new piece. The
new piece will have a slightly different shape and size to make everything fit
as it should. To remove the old piece, I had to be careful not to damage the
main part (the part I want to keep). This went well and no damage was done.
Note: Not shown in photos is the start of fabricating the replacement piece.
I’ve only done the layout on it with magic marker on metal at this point. I
will show the fabrication and installation of new piece in invoice #18 photos. Note that final photo looks like the shop is dark but it's not. It's very well lit.
Note: Panel fit on this side of the car was always worse than the other. This may be because he built and used a jig
for installing the wheel well to one of the front fenders but not the other.
Even with a jig however, the work will not come out right if one does not check
the fit while preforming the repair. Welding on a panel always distorts the
panel. One would be surprised if they knew just how much. This is something the
restorer must take into account and compensate for while doing the work. That is why a restorer
has to keep fitting and checking as he goes, and he has to do all the panels together
so that they all fit together when he is done. This was never done, and I feel
bad that correcting it is taking a lot of time and money. I wish it didn’t have
to be so, but it is going well, and when it’s done, it will be right.
THANK
YOU, JERRY!
