Photo 18-2a thru 2c) Photos show my work fabricating new spare tire well
section for right front fender. I used metal from an old sign because I had no
18 ga metal. I had 16 ga and 20 ga. The nearest 18 ga was 1.75 hours away (3.5
hour round trip), but I had the sign and it was 18 ga (I checked it with digital calipers and it was a light 18 ga or heavy 19 ga which is just fine). It is good metal and it worked well. I had already cut from the sign before so it wasn’t
like I sacrificed a vintage sign.
Photos 18-3a) Adjusting running board’s inner
brace, before proceeding. Note: Brace looks out of square in photo but that is only because it was laying loose in the running board when photo was taken.
Photo 18-4a and 4f) Completing work on right front fender inner structure.
Photo 18-5a thru 5c) Fitting and welding fender inner and outer structures
together.
Photo 18-6a) Sheet metal laid down on running board to prevent
welding sparks from burning polished stainless steel.
Photo 18-7a thru 7b) Checking for warpage after
welding inner and outer structures together (all was good).
Photo 18-8a thru 8f) Installing, fitting, and welding the rear section
back onto front fender.
Photo 18-9a thru 9d) Installing, fitting, and welding wheel house section into
front fender.
Photo 18-10a thru 10b) View of bottom side. In top photo, note that I left a little of the underside welds showing in order to maintain good unit strength. Also, some of the welds are from previous work when I widened the fender. The welds will hide with high-build primer or a little spot putty.
Photo 18-11a thru 11b) This was the moment-of-truth when I unbolted the
fender to see if it had warpage from welding. Note: When I welded it onto the
fender, I did so in the same fashion that a person would tighten cylinder head
on and engine, working back and forth in a cross pattern. Also while welding, I
had both pieces bolted and clamped tightly in place. When I removed the bolts
and clamps, the fender did not move. The photos were taken with no bolts or
clamps holding it to the running board. It lays perfectly where it should, bolt
holes line up and bolts can be installed with fingers. This is a major hurdle
cleared.
Photo 18-12a) After completing the work, I immediately primed the bare metal to avoid oxidation and surface rust. The primer is spray can primer, for temporary protection, and can be removed before body and paint work is done to fender.
Note: I am extremely pleased now that the right side panels fit without the crazy use of clamps and jacks. Panels can be removed and installed like normal panels, holes line up perfectly, and bolts can be installed with fingers. I still need to install the stiffener to the splash apron. I believe I mentioned this when I began work on this side of the car, being that the splash apron stiffener must go on last (same as the left side was). I also need to weld up the frame-to-running board gussets which are modified but only spot welded. So there is still some work to go on the right side but the big part is done, and it is right!
THANK
YOU, JERRY!
