Photos 5-6a thru 5-6c ) Parts receive epoxy primer coating. Very glad how they turned out, and glad to have them now protected from rust.
Note: There are more parts to prep and prime. I will do them one batch at a time until all are done.
THANK
YOU, JERRY!
Photo 1) Photos show front shocks which are flash rusted. To fix this, I had intended to scrub the flash rust off with a DuPont product called, 5717s. That product has been discontinued at I could not find it anywhere including online. I found a replacement product but, not before I found another alternative which is to scrub the metal with vinegar and then neutralize it with acetone. I tried this on a small spot as shown on the photo, and it works very well.
Photo 3) Picture of car after I removed parts that are to be
primed. The fenders, splash apron, and hood panels will also be primed. The
floor pans will be removed, primed, and reinstalled. The seat frames will be
primed where bare metal. Everything that is bare metal will be primed to
prevent rust development.
Photo 4) Most of the rear axle was primed years ago but the
ends and brake backing plates were not primed and are currently showing light
flash rust. These areas will be prepped and primed.
Photo 5) Photo shows leaf springs wrapped in plastic, and also, the fuel tank. I am treating the leaf springs differently from the rest of the parts. Since the plan is to have them chrome plated in the future, it would be wasteful to take them completely apart for priming now. Instead, I soaked them in Marvel Mystery Oil and wrapped them in plastic as shown in photo. Later I will wipe off the oil and prime the springs with oil based primer. This way, the springs can be chrome plated in the future, or if it is decided they should be painted instead, they can be painted with black oil base paint without being disassembled if you like, and the oil can remain between the springs.
Regarding
the gas tank, I poured the remaining
bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank and swished it around to
prevent rust from beginning inside. And because MMO spreads everywhere, it will
revel pin holes in the tank welds if there are any, and the pin holes can then be
soldered before gas is ever put in the tank. So far I do not see any pin holes.
Photo 6) These are products for your car I purchase with the
credit card you sent me. Products from O’Reilly’s Auto Parts in North Lawrence,
Kansas. And products from Water’s Hardware in Oskaloosa Kansas. The product costs
do not show on your bill of course since I purchased them with your card. Also
shown in photo are the vinegar and Mystery Oil
which I purchased with my credit card. The baggies in the photo are the
hardware that attaches the parts I removed. The parts will be reinstalled after
primer dries.
Note: I can e-mail you photo copies of the material receipts if you like. I
can also e-mail you an itemized invoice for the work I did if you like (I
already have it printed out for my records).
Note: The process of prepping and priming all the parts will take some time. I will do them one batch at a time until all are done.
THANK YOU, JERRY!
Photo 7, 8, 9) Photo shows 3
stainless plates fabricated and installed. The second two photos show the difference
between the old plate on the right side, and new plate just installed to the
left side. Each new plate fills in several gaps that the old plate did not
cover. The gaps did not look good. The new plates fill in the gaps completely
and make for a much better look. The new plates are not yet polished although I
did quickly run them across the buffing wheel once just to spiff them up a bit
for photos. They can be polished later.
Note: While reinstalling the left fenders, running board, and splash apron,
it was very nice to have all the holes line up and fasteners thread easily in
with fingers (no more ridiculous system of clamps and jacks to put it all
together). Repair of right side panels will come next.
THANK YOU JERRY!
General Description of Work: Fabricate new apron lower edge stiffener (some of the
fabrication work was done in the last billing - see number 16 & 17 photo
descriptions for last invoice). Install lower
edge stiffener to apron on car, tack weld, mark new mounting hole locations, then
remove front fender and running board, lift body and remove apron from car. Install
new stiffener to apron, correct old mounting holes, straighten apron to remove
welding warp, then lift body and reinstall apron to car.
Photo 1) Photo shows the old splash apron lower edge wrapping
under the running board. The old edge served as a stiffener and was made of
light material bent at 90%. It did not run the length of the apron
uninterrupted. It allowed for too much flex. Also, the stiffener mounting
holes, visible from other side, were incorrect (as shown in photo #3).
Photo 2) Photo shows the new splash apron bottom edge made of
heavier material. The new 90% edge is not as wide but it runs the length
unbroken and is made of heavier material. It is cleaner looking and stronger. The
strength is important because when the splash apron is removed later for
bodywork and paint, it will not be flimsy and prone to flexing which could
cause paint cracking problems later. Also, it eliminates the incorrectly placed
mounting holes along the bottom edge of splash apron.
Photo 3) Photo shows
incorrect mounting holes of lower edge with correct locations drilled in new
90% stiffener.
Photo 4) Photo shows weld to correct hole. The welds were then
dressed down, the piece was turned over and new holes drilled from backside.
Photo 5) Checking piece for straightness.
Photo 6) Work area.
Photo 7) Apron with new stiffener edge and holes corrected.
Photo 1) I elevated the body off the frame ¼ inch to remove
splash apron. Before lifting the body, I sized all mounting holes to take ½
inch bolts except the front two at the cowl where I installed 7/16 bolts. I did
this because work done previously used a
hodgepodge of fasteners. I used longer than normal bolts so that when I lifted
the body, the bolts would all remain in their holes and everything would stay in
alignment. When I reinstalled the splash apron, I lowered the body back onto
the frame.
Photo 2, 3, 4, 5) Photos show the sheet metal pull I used to pull the
rear fender into alignment so that it squared with the body and running board
and splash apron. I anchored the pull where the front axle attaches to the
frame, and I slipped a tube over the front running board gusset to strengthen
it and create an attachment point for the wenches. The last photo (5) shows the fender nearly
square with the rear running board gusset. If the fender is not square with the
gusset, the running board and fender will not mate. I thought I had it close
enough but when I test fitted the running board to fender, I saw had to take it
just a little bit further (see photo 6 below).
Photo 6a, 7) The rear fender’s bottom face had a slight outward
bow which also prevented it from matting up square with the running board. To
fix this, I put a giant dolly (made from a 10 inch section of railroad track)
behind the fender and used a body hammer to square the fender face. Ruler on
fender shows the face after I squared it. (Note: I worked on this fender’s
bottom months ago but only its outside edge to shape and fabricate its edge
bead to match the trim piece that runs along the bottom edge of running board.
I did that work with the fender clamped to the running board, to hold them in
square. Now, after the current repair work, clamps are no longer needed to hold
the fender and running board square).
Photo 8) Initial sheet metal pull on front fender to bring it
into square with body. I anchored this pull at point where the rear axle
attaches to the frame on the opposite side of the car. Note the large piece of
angle iron placed behind the splash apron to keep the fender from crushing the
apron while making the pull. Also, I had to unbolt and lower the front running
board gusset to make this pull. The pull did bend the splash apron slightly, I
watched it carefully, and I accepted it in the knowledge that I had already cut
the strengthener off of its bottom and therefore I knew it would be easy to
bend it back straight.
Photo 9, 9a) Sheet metal pull to square front fender with body, running board, and splash apron. I anchored this pull where the rear axle attaches to the frame on the same side of the body. While I pulled on the fender, I used a 4X4 block and large hammer to strike the fender in location shown in photo, to change its shape and square it with the car’s body and frame. I had to be careful doing this. I did not want to distort the fender in the wrong way. It worked out good!
Photo 10) Front fender now square with running board gusset. (Note:
I wish I had taken a photo before I started this work to show how far the
fender was out of square with the gusset and running board and body. It was
terrible.)
Photo 12, 13) Initial correcting of the splash apron’s shape and fit. Photo shows a steel tube clamped to the splash apron and frame, to hold it in position at that point. The wood 2x2 laying on the splash apron will be placed under the apron to serve as a load spreader while pushing up on the apron with hydraulic ram.
Photo 18, 19, 20) First photo shows what looks like a sheet metal body seam, but it is not. It’s door glue used like body filler to fill a gap between the rear fender and body. I ground the glue/filler off the car as shown in second photo. Third photo shows the gap after I removed the filler. The gap is too wide to be hidden with fender welt.
Photo 21, 22, 23) First photo shows how the gap closes up at the bottom
corner of quarter panel. Second panel show how I modified the bottom corner of
quarter panel. This modification allowed me to move fender slightly and help
close the overall gap. I also metal worked the fender considerably to close the
gap. By modifying the quarter panel lower corner, and metal working the fender,
I was able to close the gap (see next photos).
Photo 26, 27, 28, 29) Photos show repair of bow in end of running board both at front and back. The bow would not allow the running board to mate up square with the fenders. To remove the bow, I had to accept that the top of the running board at its far ends would have a very slight rise. It is very slight and should be okay but if not I can correct it by use of smalls screws and a narrow trim piece. I hope to avoid that because I like to show that the panels fit together perfectly without the use of trim used to hide misalignment. However, if we do need to use a piece of trim, we can do it in a way where the trim sits on the running board only and therefore does not hide the perfect alignment of panels (I can explain this better in person).
Photo 30, 31, 32) Finished work! The panels fit together so well, they sit
as shown in photo with bolts in loose, or with no bolts at all! All the holes
line up just right. Bolts and nuts go in easy with fingers. Previously,
installing the panels required a ridiculous combination of clamps and even a
hydraulic jack which put them in one hell of bind, and that was just asking for
paint to pop off somewhere down the line. I was not one-hundred percent
positive that this problem could be corrected completely. But it is 100%
corrected now, and it is a great weight off my chest!
Photo 33) Photo shows the right front fender (shown on left in photo) may not have the correct shape. Not sure about this yet. I haven’t had time to give it a close look. To check this, I need to mount the spoke wheels and tires and the front bumper. A lay-person might not notice a difference in the two fenders without the wheels and bumper as reference points, but once the wheels and bumper are on, if the fenders are not the same, the difference it will stick out like a sore thumb.
Photo 34) These are the storage bins I use to keep small parts in. They are also visible in the background of photo #1. There is no charge to you for the work of organizing the parts or in transporting the car.
_________________________________________________________________________
THANK YOU JERRY!
1930 REO Photo and video record of work I performed, Invoice #22. (and) Photo and video assembly guide for use by Hot Rod Express. _________...
