1930 REO
Photo and video record of work I performed, Invoice #22.
(and)
Photo and video assembly guide for use by Hot Rod Express.
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SECTION ONE, PHOTOS
The above photo (1a) shows interior hardboard panels. These panels had been stored in the attic of the previous shop, where a water leak caused them to warp. As shown in the photo, I placed clamps and weights on the panels to straighten them out. I kept them like this for approximately ten days, which helped considerably. However, I recommend replacing them with aluminum panels. If this were done, the old hardboard panels could be used as templates for making new aluminum panels. I originally wanted to make the panels out of aluminum, but it wasn't my decision to make. I wanted to make them out of aluminum because I believed that hardboard panels could warp (even without direct exposure to moisture).
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Above photos (1b – 1bx) show the undercarriage items I installed, including the gas tank, which I had previously removed in the prior shop, and later, in my shop, I prepped and epoxy coated along with over 150 other parts, to protect them from rusting, after which I stored most without reinstallation to the car. Now, in this most recent work segment, I have reinstalled the epoxy-coated parts (note that in my previous photos sent to Hod Rod Express, the gas tank is shown installed, but it is bare metal because the photo was taken in the prior shop before being transferred to my shop where I epoxy-coated all the bare metal parts). Also in this most recent work segment, I reinstalled the electrical wiring that had been disconnected to epoxy coat the floor and lower firewall pans. I also reinstalled/reconnected the A/C lines and heater hoses. I reinstalled the exhaust system, which I had removed and stored prior to epoxy coating the floor pans and gas tank. I installed the front shocks, park brake cable mounts, and other miscellaneous items. I did this assembly work for two reasons. First and foremost, to assist the technicians at Hot Rod Express so they could see how and where the different components of the REO fit together. Second, assembling the REO was necessary to fit it into its trailer, along with its many extra parts, which are also stored in the trailer.
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The above photos (1c – 1f) show the aluminum headliner panels, which were also damaged by the previously mentioned water leak. As shown in the photos, I cleaned and primed the panels. I also labeled them with a marker pen to indicate their placement from front to back, including directional arrows.
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The above photos (2a – 2e) show the installation of the trunk with its A/C components and battery box. Note that I placed cardboard pads before installing the trunk; however, the actual method will be to use spacers (approximately ½ inch tall) on each of the trunk's four corners to hold it above the rear body panel. The spacer material is contained in a plastic bag and labeled accordingly. Also importantly, I installed the trunk's lid specifically because it has a custom-made latch mechanism that would otherwise be difficult to understand. The mechanism is adjustable, allowing for a gasket to be installed in the lid.
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The above photos (3a – 3m) show the permanent inner structure of the upper body (as seen in the top photo). Photo 3b shows the placement of electric wires for windshield wiper motor and dome light. Photo 3c shows the labeling of headliner components. Photo 3d shows the installation of the inner structure support for quarter panel interior components. Photo 3e (fifth from the top) shows the locator hole with the hole-finding tool installed (to help the technician position the inner structure correctly). Photos 3f – 3ha (6th – 9th photos from top) also show the inner structure that supports the quarter window reveal molding and interior side panel. Note that the screw that goes through the interior panel and into the inner structure will be hidden behind the quarter window reveal molding. Photos 3i and 3j (10th and 11th photos from the top) show the placement of the interior B-post panel with the windlace retainer. Photo 3ja (fifth from bottom) shows a windlace retainer with one of the sections of windlace that I fabricated as aids while doing the original mockup for the interior (see later videos). Photo 3jb shows a shop table with wind-lace retainers and window reveal moldings laid out. Photos 3k through 3m show the upper interior assembled.
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The above photos (4a–4q) show the cleanup, painting, and reassembly of the door's inner structures. Note that the white paint used on the doors is oil-based, as recommended by Loctite for use over their Extend rust treatment product, which was previously applied to the bottoms of the doors (to soak the seams). Also note that in photo 4L (sixth photo from the bottom), I am pointing to a band between the inner structure primer and exterior primer, as the two primers are not compatible. The band is covered by the interior panel and therefore serves as a safe space between the two. In other areas, such as around the window openings, the safe space is much smaller. However, I kept the oil-based paint away from the edge, which should allow the painters to paint around the edge without overlaying the oil-based paint. Photos 4m and 4n (4th and 5th from the bottom )show the assembled door after cleanup and priming. Photos 4o and 4p show the door-stop strap. Photo 4q shows a piece of rubber installed in the window channel as a temporary safety measure.
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The above photos (5a – 5d). This series of ten photos shows me taping mounting holes to clean threads that were clogged with primer, making screw installation difficult. Also shown in photos is my work sizing rubber parts, cleaning steel parts, installing parts, and checking door fit after installation. Photo 5cc shows the product I used as a replacement for DuPont 5717s metal conditioner. It is an inferior product, and I would not use it under any primer or paint. I only used it to keep the bare steel part in the photo from rusting. I believe there is now a new 5717s made by Cromax, but I doubt it uses the same formula, as the old formula was outlawed, as I understand it, due to environmental concerns. Note: The B-post mounts were installed before my involvement in the project, and in my opinion, should have received captured plates and/or nuts. Note: I did not have enough parts to complete work on both left and right B-posts; however, the necessary parts are simple and can be easily fabricated.
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The above photos (6a – 6dd). This series of eight photos shows how the top of the right door is wider than the top of the left door, which explains why the door reveal moldings are presently different in size. The doors, which were accidentally made ½ inch too short, were also different in thickness at their tops. These mistakes were made prior to my involvement with the project. The REO’s owner knows the full story behind this problem. I believe the problem can be remedied by making the left door top and front reveal molds as wide as the right door top and front reveal molds, and then compensating for the difference through the use of interior padding material. The actual difference in thickness of the door can only be seen by standing on the running board, on tiptoes, unless one is over 6ft tall and looking down at the door from a top view. I can discuss this problem and how to resolve it with Hot Rod Express.
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The above photos (7a – 7aaa). The A/C and heater unit was in place but not connected. I had previously removed it to epoxy coat the floor pan and seat pedestal, then put it back in its place. Now, I reinstalled the A/C lines, heater AN lines, A/C drain hose, and electrical wiring so that the technicians at Hot Rod Express could see exactly how everything hooks up. Photo 7aaa (the bottom photo) shows one of the A/C lines, which is somewhat difficult to install due to cramped space, but with a little patience, it will go right in, as shown in the photo.
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The above photos (8a – 8d) show seat frames that I cleaned and primed before installation. Note: I had previously modified the seat frames for use in the REO, but had not yet cleaned and primed them. Photo 22-8c (fourth photo from bottom) shows the cable adjuster I fabricated for each seat. Photo 22-8d (third photo from bottom) shows the new seat adjuster handles, which are not of high quality. Photo 22-8e (second from bottom) shows the seat valance panels, which I previously fabricated (the lighting in the photo makes the valence panels appear rusty, and they did have a little rust, but not much). I cleaned the steel to a bright, bare metal finish and applied an oil-based primer. Seat valance panels will be covered with interior material.
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The above photos (9a – 9c) show the new and old steering column tubes. The new tube, which is stainless steel, is not the correct diameter. I believe the customer got the new tube from Speedway Motors, but I am not sure. I did not want to install the old rusty tube, so I quickly cleaned, primed, and painted it (only to protect the metal, in case it were to be used, perhaps after chrome plating). Note: I fabricated the key shown in the bottom photo, which was much faster than driving 40 miles to get a new key. The fabricated key is made of mild steel and should be replaced with a hardened steel key. Also note how the lighting gives the steering wheel's chrome a brassy, or rusty-looking tint, similar to that of the seat valance panels shown above.
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The above photos (10a – 10g) show the work I did on the wheels. I ran a die on each lug bolt to clean the chrome plating off the threads (there are only 14 bolts that I know of, so more are needed). I aligned the air nipples before airing the tires. I used a crowfoot to install the wheels. Note: Always turn the crowfoot away from the hub when tightening or loosening. The third photo from the bottom shows tape, which I assume was used to protect the wheels during the tire installation. I removed the tape before airing the tires. The second photo from the bottom shows the lock mechanisms for spare tires. The bottom photo shows one of the adapters for the substitute wheels I used while working on the car, while keeping the good wheels in storage. The substitute wheels are in the REO’s trailer, and the adapters are in a box alongside the wheels.
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The above photos (11a – 11g) show miscellaneous items to note. The top photo shows the stainless steel plates for the underside of the left running board. Plates yet need to be fabricated for the right running board, which currently has mild steel plates. In the second photo from the top, the headlight knob shaft will need to be shortened. The third photo from the top shows the location of the electric fan relay, inside the right frame rail, at the front of the engine bay. The fourth photo from the top shows one of the exhaust hangers I fabricated. Although I polished them to a high gloss years ago, the one shown in the photo, and probably all of them, will need some TLC. The fifth photo from the top shows the bolt I fabricated to install the air cleaner. The sixth and seventh photos from the top show the engine valve cover bolts, which the customer got from Speedway Motors. The bolts are of poor quality and would detract from the overall quality of the valve covers. The second photo from the bottom shows the gold clock, which goes on the dashboard. I did not install the clock. I left it wrapped in its box.
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SECTION TWO, VIDEOS
REO 22-5c: This video addresses
specifics of door inner structure.
REO 22-5d: This video addresses
specifics of door inner structure.
REO 22-5e: This video addresses
specifics of door inner structure.
REO 22-5f: This video addresses
specifics of door window stop.
REO 22-5g: This
video is a review of the assembled inner structure of the door.
REO 22-6a: This video addresses the side
window reveal moldings.
REO 22-6b: This video addresses the lower
door window reveal molding that sits on top of the wood-grained molding. Because
this molding had a strip of tape to protect the wood-grain molding, some light
surface rust developed. The rust was removed, and a new protective tape strip
was applied.
REO 22-6c: This video addresses the window
felt channels.
REO 22-6d: This video
explains the differences in the inner structures of the right and left
doors.
REO 22-6e: This video explains how corner
bead trims are installed.
REO 22-6f: This video explains the
arrangement of fasteners in the right door.
REO 22-7a: This video shows the fuse box
and wiring.
REO 22-7b: This video explains the wiring
behind the right kick panel.
REO 22-7c: This video explains the wiring
schematic and notes.
REO 22-7d: This video addresses the organization
of boxed parts.
REO 22-8a: This video explains the custom
cowl vent mechanism.
REO 22-9a: This video addresses a need
for modification to the A/N heater hose where it connects to the engine.
REO 22-9b: This video addresses the need
for preventative maintenance on the engine’s custom valve cover.
REO 22-9c: This video suggests a
possible modification to the engine firewall.
REO 22-10a: This video addresses B-pillar
hardware.
REO 22-10b: This video addresses B-pillar
hardware.
REO 22-11a: This video explains the mechanism
of the driver's seat.
REO 22-11b: This video suggests a minor
improvement to the seat mechanism.
REO 22-11c: This video explains the function
of the passenger seat.
REO 22-12a: This video suggests a modification
to the steering wheel.
REO 22-13a: This video addresses a dent
in the radiator shell.
REO 22-13b: This video addresses a chip
in the woodgrain dash panel.
REO 22-14a: This video addresses the position of REO and its parts in the trailer.
REO 22-14b: This video addresses the REO
parts in the trailer.
