1930 REO

1930 REO

(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #20)

Batch 1, Above Photos 1-7: Photo 1 is your car in my shop at the start of this photo series. Photos 2 & 3 are of small custom-made pieces that I previously made (in Jim's shop). At the start of this work (here in my shop), I couldn't find one of the custom-made pieces, despite searching high and low. I knew we took the hood off to transport the car to my shop, and I feared it had been lost in transport or left behind. I was sweating bullets, but then I looked in the black storage box where I used to keep parts for your car, and there it was, just as shown in the photo. I was greatly relieved. Of course, there is no charge to you for this. One positive outcome was that I refamiliarized myself with the REO parts while looking through the trailer and parts boxes in my shop. Photo 4 shows hail damage to your REO trailer. This is the only damage I saw, and I repaired it. The repair is only temporary, but it is strong. There was no water damage inside the trailer, and there is no charge to you for the temporary repair. Photo 5 shows the interior of your trailer. Photos 6 & 7 show why there are no mice in your trailer and no damage from mice. Three semi-feral cats live just outside your trailer, and nothing gets past them. As mentioned, there is no charge for this work, nor is this work included in the hours I deducted from your statement. 

 

Batch 2, Above Photos 1-8: Photos 1, 2, & 3 show clean up, installation, and adjustment of custom-made hood parts. Photos 4 & 5 show modifications to the cowl bolts on both right and left sides (the bolts were replaced with new bolts, and the countersinks were increased to prevent interference with the hood lace). Photos 6 & 7 show temporary installation of hood lace for fitting of the hood. Photo 8 shows the hood fitted in place. I completed the center hinge and left hinge at Jim's, and I am currently working on the right hinge. Photo 8 also shows installation of radiator, frame covers, and front valance panel. 

Batch 3, Above Photos 1-5: Photos 1 & 2 show trimming the right lower hood panel. This is not the final trimming, but just enough to fit the panel. The final trimming will be completed once work on the right-side hinge is finished. Photo 3 shows a measurement and angle that are critical to the hinge (more about this later). Photos 4 & 5 show initial fitting work of right hood panels.

Batch 4, Above Photos 1-5: Photos 1 thru 5 show my work constructing a special metal break to change the angle of the right hinge's mounting lip on the right upper hood panel. I discovered the incorrect angle of the lip while initially fitting the right hood panel. I was previously unaware of it, as I had not yet reached that point when we stopped work at Jim's shop. Jim installed the lip, and he did a good job except that the angle was wrong. I have a metal break in my shop, but I knew it would not work on the lip (nor would any standard metal break). Therefore, and in reasonably short order, I used materials I had on hand in my shop to make a special metal break. The break needed to bend the lip without damaging the hood molding, and complicating the problem, the lip was double-layered (more on this later).  

Batch 4, Above Video 1 & 2: Videos 1 and 2 show how the custom metal break works. (Note: You may need to click on the video twice to get it to play.)

Batch 5, Above Photos 1 & 2: Photos 1 and 2 show the work I did to relieve the pressure on the double-walled lip. When metal is double-layered, it does not bend evenly, and because the lip went all the way to the molding, it created a big challenge. After slicing the lip to relieve the pressure, I again tried to bend the lip in the custom metal break. Note: I was careful not to cut into the original hood, but only to cut the lip that had been added to it. Jim added the lip when he cut the old hinge off the hood.

Batch 6, Above Photos 1-4: Photos 1 thru 4 show the work I did cutting the lip off the hood. This is what I was trying to avoid by making the special metal break, but the break could only get me about halfway to where I needed to be. I tried and tried with the break, but I finally had to give up. All along, I knew I might have to cut the lip off and make a new one, but I was really hoping not to. I knew it would be a mess, in part because the lip was loaded with spot welds, and drilling them out and separating it from the hood would be a mess. But don't worry, all ended well as shall be shown below. And I will deduct a large number of labor hours from your invoice. Also, I will not charge you for the materials I used to fabricate the special metal break and dollies. I already had all those materials on hand in my shop, and I still have them available to use again.

Batch 7, Above Photos 1-4: Photos 1 thru 4 show the special dollies I made to work the hood after I removed the lip. The second photo shows how the dollies fit the hood and molding just right. The third photo shows one of the dollies screwed to a board that is clamped to my work table, and the video posted below shows me using the dolly. The fourth photo shows the dolly that is the same length as the hood.

Batch 7, Above Video 1: Video shows me using one of the custom dollies to work the hood  after removing the lip.

Batch 8, Above Photos 1-13: Photos 1 and 2 show the hood and the old lip removed, and how the lip used to fit to the hood (the old lip fit well, but as mentioned above, its angle was wrong). Photo 3 shows me cutting 18-gauge metal for the fabrication of a new lip. Photo 4 shows my metal break, which is only a Harbor Freight; however, it has been seriously modified, and the fellow who had it modified paid more for the modification than he did for the break when it was new. As a result, it can break a full length of 18-gauge metal, which is unusual for a 4-foot break. Photo 5 shows me folding the metal over to double it (after using the metal break to put a 90-degree bend in it). Photo 5a shows that throughout the process I kept the new piece straight. Photos 6 and 7 show me trimming the fold. Photo 8 shows the new lip in progress with a section of the old lip included for photo reference. Photos 9 thru 12 show the fabrication of the new lip. I decided to divide the new lip into 4 nine-inch sections, and that proved to be a good decision. Photo 13 shows me checking for straightness, which I did throughout the work.

 

Batch 9, Above Photos 1-13: Photo 1 shows me checking to make certain I weld the lip in at the exact angle needed. Photos 2 and 3 show me running a test to get the proper heat setting for a double layer of 18-gauge metal. Photo 2 shows that my first test weld was too hot, but I got the spot welder set right after that.  Photos 4 thru 6 show me spot welding the new lip in. Photo 5 shows the only area that is not riddled with holes from drilling the old spot welds, and it shows a line of five new spot welds that I installed. After I installed those spot welds, I went back and added a line of welds to the seam as well. Photo 6 shows how I made the new lip so that it does not go all the way into the molding, which is good. This way, the lip's angle can be changed if necessary, although I was fortunate and nailed the angle on the first try, so no correction was needed. Photos 7 and 8 show me checking for straightness, which as previously mentioned, I did throughout the process, and made corrections as necessary. Photos 9 thru 11 show the end result: a hood and hinge that fit and function correctly, and I was happy! 

Note: In photos 9 thru 11, only one attaching screw is in the hinge. This is because the surface is currently pocked with old and new spot weld marks, and I will need to smooth it out before installing the mounting screws, which must be located precisely. I will do this next.

THANK YOU, JERRY!