1930 REO

 

1930 REO

(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #12)

Photo 12-1a thru 12-1d) Photos show re-assembly of interior. There is a lot of re-assembly work that the photos do not show. I did not leave the REO disassembled for several reasons. It is better that it be assembled in case for any reason someone else needs to complete the car. It needs to be assembled so I can test the electrical systems before final disassembly. Likewise, the vent assembly, steering assembly, and other assemblies need to be in place to complete other assembly task yet to come. It was too bad that we had to stop and epoxy coat all the parts but it had to be done, and now it is a relief to have all the parts protected, and to have the car back together. I still need to prime the hood door mechanisms, the insides of the car doors, and a small section of the firewall. Also, I still have some assembly work to do. After re-assembly, I will begin where I left off before the epoxy primer work. I will repair the right fenders, running board, and splash apron to make them fit without need of hydraulic jacks or wenches (same as I did on the left side).

Photo 12-2a thru 12-2d) Photos show more interior assembly work.

Photos 11-3a thru 12-3d) Photos show exterior assembly work.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!

1930 REO

 

1930 REO

(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #11)

Photo 11-1a & 1c) Photo shows new lock set for trailer, lock receipt, and old lock that I cut off.

Photo 11-2) The photo shows the stainless steel hood doors which I found while reorganizing the trailer. I assume you will want to use them? The door hinges and hardware are made of mild steel and will need to be acid dipped to remove the rust as planned.

Photos 11-3) Photos show interior of trailer after reorganization. I didn’t spend a lot of time but just made it easier to get around inside and find things.

Photo 11-4a thru 11-4d) Photos documents parts that I took out of the trailer and threw away. Actually the parts are still in a pile outside behind my shop, but I will eventually throw them in the dumpster. 

Photo 11-5)  Photo shows use of reference photos to reassemble parts like the park brake which are somewhat complex. Having reference photos makes the assembly go quicker.  

Photo 11-6)  Photo shows compression of leaf-spring for installation. I did not originally install the springs. Skyler installed them and when he did, he made some wooden blocks to substitute for the rubber blocks which is okay for now. I made some more wood blocks for the same purpose. After I installed the springs, I used a drop light and flash light to look into the shackle bays and see how the spring functioned while using the jack to compress and decompress the spring  to simulate how it would work while driving it, even if its only driving it in and out of the trailer. I disassembled and reassembled the shackles several times to understand it. I didn’t want to waste time but I needed to know exactly how the springs pivoted inside the shackles to  be able to make the rubber molds. And I’m glad I spent a little time on them because now I understand them well and I know what needs to be done regarding the molds. I made some very complicated rubber parts in the 1990s and unless things have changed since then, I can control the hardness of the rubber through the mix. For the shackles, the rubber will need to be as hard as the mixing instructions allow.

  

THANK YOU, JERRY!