1930 REO

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #6)

Photos 6-1) Photo shows preparation of gas tank for epoxy-primer coating. I used power tools to get the metal clean and bright for the acceptance of the epoxy.

Photos 6-2) Photos show preparation of front valence panel (goes under radiator). Again I used power tools to get the metal clean and bright for the acceptance of the epoxy.

Photos 6-3a thru 6-3d) Photos show preparation of the four fenders. I used a high-power rust-buster pad on the outside surface of fenders, and a high-power wire-brush on the underside surfaces (note the swirl marks from power wire-wheel on underside surfaces). I used other tools also including a steel wire tooth brush to clean the tight corners around wheel-well inserts on underside.

Photos 6-4) Photo shows power tools I used in the cleaning process.

Photo 6-5a and 6-5b)  Top photo shows batch of parts ready for epoxy coating. Lower photo shows right front fender in progress on work bench. After cleaning the steel surfaces, I acid etched them using vinegar with a final wipe down of metal-conditioner as it seemed to do a good job on large surface area parts like the fenders (I used metal-conditioner from my stock). The acid etch is what gives the metal the bluish look as seen in the top photo.

Photo 6-6) Photos show parts after epoxy coating (front fenders, rear fenders, gas tank, and front valance panel).

 

 Note: There are more parts to prep and prime. I will do them one batch at a time until all are done.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!

 

Temporary post

Temporary post showing state of metal parts in shop as they are today (Aug 17, 2022). Parts will be acid scrubbed, neutralized, and primed with epoxy. The yoke on rear axle shows signs of surface rust which will be removed before priming. The front axle also shows signs of beginning surface rust which will be removed before priming. 

1930 REO

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #5)

Photos 5-1a thru 5-1e) Photos show preparation of leaf-springs, priming, and painting.  Springs were scrubbed with steel wool, vinegar, and lacquer thinner. Power wire-wheel was used on sides to get between groves. Rust buster pad was also used in some areas. Springs cleaned up well and received primer and paint. All of the pre-purchased oil base paint was used (two pints).

Photos 5-2a thru 5-2c) Spring perches were rusted and corroded inside where rubber insets sat. Cleaned out the heavy corrosion, then soaked them in vinegar to further remove rust.

Photos 5-3a thru 5-3e) Parts were disassembled and hardware was soaked in vinegar to remove rust. Hardware was then left to soak in Marvel Mystery Oil. 

Photos 5-4a thru 5-4c) Along with scrubbing parts with vinegar and steel-wool, rust-buster pad was used where needed to remove  rust.

Photo 5-5a) Scrubbed with vinegar and then gone over immediately with lacquer thinner, parts cleaned up nicely.

Photos 5-6a thru 5-6c ) Parts receive epoxy primer coating. Very glad how they turned out, and glad to have them now protected from rust.

 

Note: There are more parts to prep and prime. I will do them one batch at a time until all are done.

 

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!

 

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #4)

Photo 1) Photos show front shocks which are flash rusted. To fix this, I had intended to scrub the flash rust off with a DuPont product called, 5717s. That product has been discontinued at I could not find it anywhere including online. I found a replacement product but, not before I found another alternative which is to scrub the metal with vinegar and then neutralize it with acetone. I tried this on a small spot as shown on the photo, and it works very well.

Photo 2) Due to the flash rust on the front shocks, I inspected all bare metal parts and found almost all to have some degree of flash rust. Not as bad as the shocks but, all the bare metal parts had some oxidation. So I made the decision to clean, prep, and prime all bare metal parts. All parts will be scrubbed with the aforementioned treatment to prepare them for primer. As soon as they are prepared, they will be primed so as not to allow any oxidation to start which can be invisible to the naked eye. The parts will be primed with catalyzed epoxy primer. It is important to note that this process of scrubbing and priming would need to take place sooner or later anyway, so it may as well be done now to protect all parts from future rust. That said, the epoxy primer will need to be removed in areas that require metal work and spot putty work, but it is very important that they be protected in the meantime. Also, the epoxy primer will need to be removed from parts that are to be chrome plated, but again, it is important to protect them from rust now.

Photo 3) Picture of car after I removed parts that are to be primed. The fenders, splash apron, and hood panels will also be primed. The floor pans will be removed, primed, and reinstalled. The seat frames will be primed where bare metal. Everything that is bare metal will be primed to prevent rust development.

Photo 4) Most of the rear axle was primed years ago but the ends and brake backing plates were not primed and are currently showing light flash rust. These areas will be prepped and primed.

Photo 5) Photo shows leaf springs wrapped in plastic, and also, the fuel tank. I am treating the leaf springs differently from the rest of the parts. Since the plan is to have them chrome plated in the future, it would be wasteful to take them completely apart for priming now. Instead, I soaked them in Marvel Mystery Oil and wrapped them in plastic as shown in photo. Later I will wipe off the oil and prime the springs with oil based primer. This way, the springs can be chrome plated in the future, or if it is decided they should be painted instead, they can be painted with black oil base paint without being disassembled if you like, and the oil can remain between the springs.

Regarding the gas tank, I poured the remaining  bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank and swished it around to prevent rust from beginning inside. And because MMO spreads everywhere, it will revel pin holes in the tank welds if there are any, and the pin holes can then be soldered before gas is ever put in the tank. So far I do not see any pin holes.

Photo 6) These are products for your car I purchase with the credit card you sent me. Products from O’Reilly’s Auto Parts in North Lawrence, Kansas. And products from Water’s Hardware in Oskaloosa Kansas. The product costs do not show on your bill of course since I purchased them with your card. Also shown in photo are the vinegar and Mystery Oil  which I purchased with my credit card. The baggies in the photo are the hardware that attaches the parts I removed. The parts will be reinstalled after primer dries.

 

Note: I can e-mail you photo copies of the material receipts if you like. I can also e-mail you an itemized invoice for the work I did if you like (I already have it printed out for my records).

Note: The process of prepping and priming all the parts will take some time. I will do them one batch at a time until all are done.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!

1930 REO

1930 REO

(photo descriptions for work performed in, invoice #3)

Photos 1, 2, 3) Photos show repair of left rear running board gusset. 

Plan for making this repair was previously mentioned in 

description for photo #17, invoice #1.

Photo 4, 5, 6) Photo shows fabrication of stainless steel plates

 for running boards. Plan for making these plates was previously

 mentioned in description for photo #17, invoice #1.

Photo 7, 8, 9)  Photo shows 3 stainless plates fabricated and installed. The second two photos show the difference between the old plate on the right side, and new plate just installed to the left side. Each new plate fills in several gaps that the old plate did not cover. The gaps did not look good. The new plates fill in the gaps completely and make for a much better look. The new plates are not yet polished although I did quickly run them across the buffing wheel once just to spiff them up a bit for photos. They can be polished later.

 

Note: While reinstalling the left fenders, running board, and splash apron, it was very nice to have all the holes line up and fasteners thread easily in with fingers (no more ridiculous system of clamps and jacks to put it all together). Repair of right side panels will come next.

THANK YOU JERRY!