1930 REO

 

1930 REO

(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #14)

Photo 14-1a thru 14-1e) Photos show right side front fender work. I used my portable frame-machine to help me correct the shape of the fender. Last photo shows the fender brace which I removed prior to doing the work. I will reinstall the brace once the fender is correctly shaped.

Photo 14-2a thru 13-2b) More reshaping work on right front fender.

Photos 43-3a thru 14-3d) Photos show measuring as an aid to achieve correct fender shape. Note: The fender was visibly out of shape and the measurements helped me to understand what needed to be done. The measurements were way off at first but were either exact or within one sixteenth of an inch when I finished. Note: The first photo shows a measurement not for the fender but rather, between frame and front axle to make sure both sides are the same before taking other measurements. This measurement was exact from the start on both sides, and that is good  as it means the axle is true (the spring shackles currently have wooden substitutes in them but the substitutes are exactly equal in dimension so we are good on that).

Photo 14-4a thru 14-4e) Photos show use of a large straight edge as an aid to get the fender in the right shape. Note the white arrow in first photo. I put that arrow in the photo to show that the front edge of the fender from the center line to the inside seam indicated by the arrow is not stamped exactly the same as the left fender. It is more straight whereas the left fender is more curved. The left fender has the better form. It is tempting for me to correct this by slicing the fender and rewelding it. However, I am a perfectionist-nut and unless you tell me to change the right fender so that it is identical to the left one, I will leave it as is. The bubble level on the straight edge was helpful but the tape measure was the real deal. As said, the fender was way off but when finished the measurements were exact side to side. Getting this shape right not only makes the fender look much better when viewed, it also helps at the back of the fender where it must fit to the running board and the splash apron, although there is still a lot of work to do back there.

Photo 14-5a thru 14-5e)  Photos show headlight bar installed. The second photo is a good example of why all parts must be fit before paint work is done. If this gap is not corrected now, then it will crack the paint when the gap is drawn together. This is also an example of why I never do chrome work until after all the parts have been fitted to the car. The third photo is also an example of why I never chrome parts until after they have been fitted. This fit may need to be expanded, meaning the bar will need to be retracted some from its receptacle, and it might be scratched as a result. This is why whenever someone brought me an automobile to restore with the chrome work already done, I refused to take the job. The fitting work must come first. Otherwise its out of sequence and it causes a lot of unnecessary problems. Sorry to say this, but parts may need to be re-chromed. Hopefully not but no guarantees. I know the previous shop used lots of tape layers on the chrome parts but that is a waste of time. Hours spent taping parts, and usually for nothing. Anyway, as long as you’re on board with this, I will continue with the work.

Photo 14-6a thru 14-6b)  I took these two photos to show the importance of having proper fit. This is only a small gap, but I can guarantee that if not corrected before painting, then it would create a real chance of paint cracking a few years down the road because of the stress on the fender when bolts are used to draw it into place. This is only small example but it is a good one. This will be corrected so that when fender is held up to the frame for mounting, there is no gap, and bolt holes line up perfectly.

 

NOTE: If I can relate why I’m doing this work to get the panels exact from side to side, its because it makes a real difference to the eye. The observer might not notice it until they see what it could and should be, and then the difference becomes obvious to them (like a house that’s out of square may not be noticed until the observer sees an identical house that is square and they realize how much better it looks).

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!

 

1930 REO

 

1930 REO

(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #13)

Photo 13-1a thru 13-1c) Photos show left side panels assembled, not tight, but bolts put in finger tightened and snug, fit is good and for use in doing a comparison as follows. Next photo shows the left side splash apron which is square. Third photo shows right side which is way off. If you remember, when I did the left side of the car, I had to square the splash apron on it also (although the right side is worse than the left side was). Note: The third photo not only shows the slash apron is out of square, but if you look to bottom of the square, notice how the fender and running board gusset are also way out of square, also, the position of the fender where it meets the running board is way too low. It’s a serious mess, but it will be right when the work is done.

Photo 13-2a thru 13-d) Photos show work I did on right side splash apron to correct its shape. Work involved set up, bending, checking, then setting up again in a different configuration, bending, and checking again. I did this many times because bending something one way can change it in other ways, like pooching it in  its center. This was the same process I did the left side. Note the square in the last photo. I also trimmed of the bottom lip of the splash apron (same as I did on the left  side splash apron). Later, I will install a new and better strengthener which will also take care of the problem of the miss-aligned holes (same as was done on the left side).

Photos 13-3a thru 10-3d) Photos show some bending work I did using hydraulic jack. Second photo shows the reinforcement work I did before using the jack. The reinforced area stayed put while I used the jack to change the shape of adjoining areas. This work did not produce a lot of results but it was a necessary step in a process to get where we want to be.

Photo 13-4a) Photo shows progress, slow but steady, still a long way to go.

Photo 13-5a thru 13-5d)  Photos show that front of right running board is way out of square. Note: The first two photos kind of look like the running board is on the car but it is not, I am holding it up and away from the car. I was surprised to find it so far out of square. I did not build these running boards, but I assumed the person that did had got them square. I will correct this, it has to be corrected to fit properly and go together without use of hydraulic jacks and clamps. The third photo surprised me even more! I don’t know but it looks like whoever installed this running board support knew that the running board was out of square and was trying to compensate. I don’t know, but I will fix it. If I could get away with leaving it I would because it will be covered up and never show, but the problem is, the running board will not fit the car this way. Last photo shows the rear running board brace which is okay.

Photo 13-6a thru 13-6c)  The first photo shows the area where the splash apron and fender meet and fit right. The second photo shows the bottom side immediately underneath. Those two panels are supposed to be lineup together perfectly same as the top as shown in first photo. The problem is, the curve of the fender is two low, and that puts the end of the fender too low at the running board. This must have happened when the new spare wheel well was installed. It was installed without checking to see if it fit. This is a big problem and I was very concerned. I didn’t know how to fix it without cutting the fender apart and doing a huge redo, but then a little lightbulb went off in my head (see third photo). Third photo shows fender moved up so that line no longer matches. Now, if I slice and reconfigure that line to match, then I will NOT have to redo the fender which would be a huge job. Much less work, still a lot of work, but not nearly as much. This is what I will do, along with a series of other steps. And when it’s done, everything should fit perfectly and go together with fingers instead of jacks and clamps.

Photo10-76a thru 10-7c) Photos show work area, and a few of the little jobs that seldom get mentioned, like cutting blocks to do forming work, and tapping holes to make threads in frame.

 

NOTE: There is a lot of work to do on the right side panels, and I just have to shake my head when I think that someone did all these panels separately without understanding that it is ridiculous to do it that way and then expect the panels to fit when done. I am very sorry that this happened. It will be right when it is finished.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!

1930 REO

 

1930 REO

(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #12)

Photo 12-1a thru 12-1d) Photos show re-assembly of interior. There is a lot of re-assembly work that the photos do not show. I did not leave the REO disassembled for several reasons. It is better that it be assembled in case for any reason someone else needs to complete the car. It needs to be assembled so I can test the electrical systems before final disassembly. Likewise, the vent assembly, steering assembly, and other assemblies need to be in place to complete other assembly task yet to come. It was too bad that we had to stop and epoxy coat all the parts but it had to be done, and now it is a relief to have all the parts protected, and to have the car back together. I still need to prime the hood door mechanisms, the insides of the car doors, and a small section of the firewall. Also, I still have some assembly work to do. After re-assembly, I will begin where I left off before the epoxy primer work. I will repair the right fenders, running board, and splash apron to make them fit without need of hydraulic jacks or wenches (same as I did on the left side).

Photo 12-2a thru 12-2d) Photos show more interior assembly work.

Photos 11-3a thru 12-3d) Photos show exterior assembly work.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!