Tuesday, December 13, 2022

1930 REO

 

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #13)





Photo 13-1a thru 13-1c) Photos show left side panels assembled, not tight, but bolts put in finger tightened and snug, fit is good and for use in doing a comparison as follows. Next photo shows the left side splash apron which is square. Third photo shows right side which is way off. If you remember, when I did the left side of the car, I had to square the splash apron on it also (although the right side is worse than the left side was). Note: The third photo not only shows the slash apron is out of square, but if you look to bottom of the square, notice how the fender and running board gusset are also way out of square, also, the position of the fender where it meets the running board is way too low. It’s a serious mess, but it will be right when the work is done.







Photo 13-2a thru 13-d) Photos show work I did on right side splash apron to correct its shape. Work involved set up, bending, checking, then setting up again in a different configuration, bending, and checking again. I did this many times because bending something one way can change it in other ways, like pooching it in  its center. This was the same process I did the left side. Note the square in the last photo. I also trimmed of the bottom lip of the splash apron (same as I did on the left  side splash apron). Later, I will install a new and better strengthener which will also take care of the problem of the miss-aligned holes (same as was done on the left side).







Photos 13-3a thru 10-3d) Photos show some bending work I did using hydraulic jack. Second photo shows the reinforcement work I did before using the jack. The reinforced area stayed put while I used the jack to change the shape of adjoining areas. This work did not produce a lot of results but it was a necessary step in a process to get where we want to be.




Photo 13-4a) Photo shows progress, slow but steady, still a long way to go.







Photo 13-5a thru 13-5d)  Photos show that front of right running board is way out of square. Note: The first two photos kind of look like the running board is on the car but it is not, I am holding it up and away from the car. I was surprised to find it so far out of square. I did not build these running boards, but I assumed the person that did had got them square. I will correct this, it has to be corrected to fit properly and go together without use of hydraulic jacks and clamps. The third photo surprised me even more! I don’t know but it looks like whoever installed this running board support knew that the running board was out of square and was trying to compensate. I don’t know, but I will fix it. If I could get away with leaving it I would because it will be covered up and never show, but the problem is, the running board will not fit the car this way. Last photo shows the rear running board brace which is okay.






Photo 13-6a thru 13-6c)  The first photo shows the area where the splash apron and fender meet and fit right. The second photo shows the bottom side immediately underneath. Those two panels are supposed to be lineup together perfectly same as the top as shown in first photo. The problem is, the curve of the fender is two low, and that puts the end of the fender too low at the running board. This must have happened when the new spare wheel well was installed. It was installed without checking to see if it fit. This is a big problem and I was very concerned. I didn’t know how to fix it without cutting the fender apart and doing a huge redo, but then a little lightbulb went off in my head (see third photo). Third photo shows fender moved up so that line no longer matches. Now, if I slice and reconfigure that line to match, then I will NOT have to redo the fender which would be a huge job. Much less work, still a lot of work, but not nearly as much. This is what I will do, along with a series of other steps. And when it’s done, everything should fit perfectly and go together with fingers instead of jacks and clamps.






Photo10-76a thru 10-7c) Photos show work area, and a few of the little jobs that seldom get mentioned, like cutting blocks to do forming work, and tapping holes to make threads in frame.

 

NOTE: There is a lot of work to do on the right side panels, and I just have to shake my head when I think that someone did all these panels separately without understanding that it is ridiculous to do it that way and then expect the panels to fit when done. I am very sorry that this happened. It will be right when it is finished.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!















Monday, November 21, 2022

1930 REO

 

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #12)





Photo 12-1a thru 12-1d) Photos show re-assembly of interior. There is a lot of re-assembly work that the photos do not show. I did not leave the REO disassembled for several reasons. It is better that it be assembled in case for any reason someone else needs to complete the car. It needs to be assembled so I can test the electrical systems before final disassembly. Likewise, the vent assembly, steering assembly, and other assemblies need to be in place to complete other assembly task yet to come. It was too bad that we had to stop and epoxy coat all the parts but it had to be done, and now it is a relief to have all the parts protected, and to have the car back together. I still need to prime the hood door mechanisms, the insides of the car doors, and a small section of the firewall. Also, I still have some assembly work to do. After re-assembly, I will begin where I left off before the epoxy primer work. I will repair the right fenders, running board, and splash apron to make them fit without need of hydraulic jacks or wenches (same as I did on the left side).







Photo 12-2a thru 12-2d) Photos show more interior assembly work.







Photos 11-3a thru 12-3d) Photos show exterior assembly work.

 

THANK YOU, JERRY!







Sunday, November 13, 2022

1930 REO

 

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #11)




Photo 11-1a & 1c) Photo shows new lock set for trailer, lock receipt, and old lock that I cut off.




Photo 11-2) The photo shows the stainless steel hood doors which I found while reorganizing the trailer. I assume you will want to use them? The door hinges and hardware are made of mild steel and will need to be acid dipped to remove the rust as planned.




Photos 11-3) Photos show interior of trailer after reorganization. I didn’t spend a lot of time but just made it easier to get around inside and find things.






Photo 11-4a thru 11-4d) Photos documents parts that I took out of the trailer and threw away. Actually the parts are still in a pile outside behind my shop, but I will eventually throw them in the dumpster. 



Photo 11-5)  Photo shows use of reference photos to reassemble parts like the park brake which are somewhat complex. Having reference photos makes the assembly go quicker.  




Photo 11-6)  Photo shows compression of leaf-spring for installation. I did not originally install the springs. Skyler installed them and when he did, he made some wooden blocks to substitute for the rubber blocks which is okay for now. I made some more wood blocks for the same purpose. After I installed the springs, I used a drop light and flash light to look into the shackle bays and see how the spring functioned while using the jack to compress and decompress the spring  to simulate how it would work while driving it, even if its only driving it in and out of the trailer. I disassembled and reassembled the shackles several times to understand it. I didn’t want to waste time but I needed to know exactly how the springs pivoted inside the shackles to  be able to make the rubber molds. And I’m glad I spent a little time on them because now I understand them well and I know what needs to be done regarding the molds. I made some very complicated rubber parts in the 1990s and unless things have changed since then, I can control the hardness of the rubber through the mix. For the shackles, the rubber will need to be as hard as the mixing instructions allow.

  

THANK YOU, JERRY!




 





Sunday, October 9, 2022

1930 REO

 

1930 REO
(photo record for work performed in, Invoice #10)



Photo 10-1a) Photo shows beginning of work on interior reveal panels and other interior parts, acid etching each part prior to epoxy coating.




Photo 10-2a) The photo shows parts that were under a mouse nest in your trailer. The mice peed on the parts and caused them to rust. It was only the few parts shown and I got rid of the mice. I now have four cats living out there and they like to hang out under the trailer, so hopefully no more mice.






Photos 10-3a thru 10-3c) Photos show the interior revel molding and other parts after acid etching and ready for epoxy coating. The heat lamp is on them to keep them warm. It was 71 degrees in the shop already so it was not cold, but I wanted to keep the parts warm, not hot, but just nice and warm to avoid any residual moister before primer application.





Photo 10-4a thru 10-4b) Photos show parts after epoxy coating. Note that parts are in the shade. No parts were ever painted in direct sunlight or allowed to dry in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight can cause the primer surface to dry too fast and trap uncured solvents underneath.




Photo 10-5a)  Photo show water jug used for soaking small parts in vinegar to remover rust. Parts were put in container several weeks ago (see photo descriptions for invoice #7). Notice how the rust has bubbled to the top to form a head of rust-foam. I drained this off and rinsed the parts with clean vinegar (see next photos below).






Photo 10-6a thru 19-6c)  The first photo shows parts after soaking in vinegar for several week. The blackish stuff seen on the parts wiped off super-easy to leave perfectly clean bare metal. The second photo shows the preparation process. The parts go from a rinse of water/vinegar to acid scrub with the new product before being thoroughly dried. Enlarge the photo if you want and see how clean the parts came out. In the near future, I will use this process to de-rust the hood doors. The third photo below shows hardware parts stored in baggies after applying oil. Note the oil turned the hardware parts dark in color.





Photo10-76a thru 10-7b) Photos show console parts, cowl vent mechanism parts, park-brake parts, and other parts after acid etching, ready for epoxy coating.






Photo 10-8a thru 10-8c) Photos show parts after epoxy coating.

Note: About 147 bare metal parts have now been cleaned, acid etched, and coated with epoxy. One more batch of parts should complete the work, or maybe two more batches.

 

 THANK YOU, JERRY!











 




 



1930 REO

1930 REO Photo and video record of work I performed, Invoice #22. (and) Photo and video assembly guide for use by Hot Rod Express. _________...